Tobacco

Life Cycle -- Annual
Plant Harvest -- 65 days
Hardiness Zone -- 3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10
Soil -- Well Drained , pH 5.8 (pH for indoor growing)
Sun Light Requirement -- Full Sun
Direct Sowing -- 24" apart, 45" rows
Germination Time -- 14 - 21 days

HAVANNA GOLD-
This old variety has been grown in the U.S. for decades now, attractive variety highly valued because of the fine flavor. Productive plants grow about 160 cm. Is used for making of cigarettes, cigars, for pipes and chewing. Quick harvest in about 65 days. Producing well even in northern states. Perfectly grows in cooler climates

Habano 2000-
is the result of crossing Corojo, a variety of Cuban dark tobacco, with Habano 2.1.1, a non-commercial Cuban tobacco variant. When grown under direct sunlight, it typically reaches a height of around six feet and has an average leaf count between 14 and 16 per plant. In particularly fertile soils, this number can increase to as many as 18 leaves per plant. Sun-grown plants are commonly used as binders or fillers in cigar production within various different cigar blends depending on their particular aroma profile. On the other hand, when cultivated under shade cloths, Habano 2000 is highly sought after for its exceptional qualities as a wrapper leaf. whilst those specimens which were grown beneath shade cloths have proven themselves indispensable due to their top-notch quality standards when it comes down to serving duty solely for wrapping purposes

Connecticut Shade-
is renowned for its ability to produce top-quality cigar wrappers. This leaf thrives and yields the best results when cultivated in shaded areas. Growing up to a height of over 9 feet, it develops 26-28 leaves that are remarkably consistent and exhibit minimal suckering. These light green leaves measure around 12" x 18", gradually transitioning to a mottled yellow hue as they mature. When grown in shade, the resulting leaves possess superior qualities compared to those cultivated under direct sunlight. They become finer, larger, and more pliable, making them ideal for crafting some of the finest cigar wrappers available. Historically, 'Connecticut Shade' was traditionally grown beneath trees and utilized not only as binder tobacco for cigars but also as filler material and wrapper components. This versatile leaf played a significant role in the production of cigars throughout its history.


Connecticut Broadleaf-
is known for its production of high-quality cigar wrappers, as it grows large leaves that are perfect for this purpose. The lower grade leaves from the same plant are utilized as filler, blending, and binder leaves in cigars. These leaves have an average width of thirteen inches and a length of twenty-six inches. They are characterized by their broadness, strength, thinness, elasticity, silkiness, and small fibers. Additionally, they possess a slightly sweet taste and cure to a light color during the drying process.

Growing Guide:

Tobacco is a member of the Solanaceae or nightshade family. This family includes tomato, pepper, eggplant, Irish potato, and a number of other plants. Tobacco belongs to the genus Nicotiana, and almost all commercial tobacco is of the tabacum species. The Nicotiana rustica species was commonly used by American Indians and may still be used for ceremonial purposes in some areas. There may be small amounts of N. rustica planted commercially in Asia. There are a number of other species of Nicotiana that serve as ornamental plants.


Soil Selection:

Tobacco should be grown in a sunny location on well-drained soils. Poorly drained soils could result in poor growth and even death of the plants. Tobacco can be grown on poorly-drained soils if the rows or hills are bedded and ditches or furrows are used to remove excess water. Drought stress could limit growth on excessively drained soils unless irrigation is provided. Lack of sun will result in spindly plants, poor growth and thin leaves. Some types of tobacco such as that used for cigar wrappers are grown under some shade to promote desirable leaf characteristics.

Avoid planting tobacco on soil infested with nematodes and diseases. Grasses would be excellent rotations for tobacco, while tomato, pepper, and similar plants would not be suitable. In addition to soil-borne pests, several virus diseases and insects that attack tomato and pepper also attack tobacco, so try to keep these plants in different areas of the garden.

Soil pH should be about 5.8 for best growth of tobacco. If lime is needed to raise the pH, use dolomite in order to get the magnesium nutrient which is important for plant growth. Poor growth and some growth disorders may occur if the soil pH is about 6.5 or more.


Producing Transplants:

It may be difficult to find tobacco seed of the commercial varieties since they are sold only in tobacco-producing areas. However, seed will retain viability over several years if kept under cool and dry conditions. Commercial varieties of tobacco were developed for certain characteristics that may be of little or no importance to home gardeners.

Since tobacco seed are very small (300,000 or more per ounce), they should be sown in a greenhouse or in a protected area. The soil should be free of weed seed and disease organisms. A flower pot would be a satisfactory container if only a few transplants will be needed. Sprinkle the seed on the soil surface, then firm the soil surface to insure good seed to soil contact. Irrigate with a very fine spray, or add water to a saucer under the flower pot. Add water as often as necessary to keep the soil surface moist, but avoid excessive water.

Small amounts of fertilizer will be needed to produce the transplants. A tobacco fertilizer should contain little or no chlorine and most of the nitrogen should be in the nitrate form. Fertilizer manufactured for use on tomato, pepper, and potato should be satisfactory for tobacco.

Seed should be sown about 50-60 days prior to the desired date of transplanting. Transplanting should be after there is no further danger of freezing temperatures. Normally the best transplant is about 6-8 inches in length.



Transplanting:

Transplanting tobacco is very similar to transplanting other garden plants. Bury or remove trash from the soil surface and provide for drainage by bedding the soil. If rows are used, space the plants about 24 inches apart. Rows should be 42-48 inches apart. Water the plants after transplanting and as needed during the season.


MAINTAINING:

Fertilization

Fertilizers for tobacco could be the same fertilizers used for tomato, pepper, or potato. As in plant production, the fertilizer should contain little or no chlorine and most of the nitrogen should be in the nitrate form. In general, it would be best to apply the fertilizer in several applications. Some could be applied to the soil before transplanting, but do not place it where it will be in high concentration around the roots of the transplants. The total amount of fertilizer to apply will depend on the grade of the fertilizer, the natural or residual fertility of the soil, losses of soluble nutrients by leaching, and perhaps other factors. The best approach to fertilizing garden tobacco would be to apply fertilizer as needed to keep the plants growing well with a good green color. However, do not over fertilize or the plants may be too big and rank. If adequately fertilized up to the time of flowering, there should be no need to add any more fertilizer after the flowers begin to form.



Pest Control:

Several pests can be problems for tobacco. Avoid nematode and other soil pest problems by proper soil selection and rotation. Weeds can be controlled by hoeing or pulling. The most common insect problems expected would be budworms, aphids and hornworms. Diseases that damage tobacco may include those that attack other plants or they may be specific pathogens for tobacco. Identify the pest problem and consult the appropriate pest control guide for information.


Topping and Suckering:

While some tobacco plants are grown around the home for ornamental purposes, which includes the flowers, plants that are grown for cured tobacco should normally be topped as soon as the flower forms. Topping, or removal of the terminal bud, allows the upper leaves to get larger and thicker than they would in an uptopped condition. The top can be removed by breaking it out or cutting it off, preferably before any flowers open.

Soon after the top is removed, and before if topping is delayed, axillary buds or suckers develop at each leaf. The best way for the home gardener to prevent the suckers from reducing yield and quality is to remove them by hand. Suckers should be removed when they exceed about an inch in length. It may be necessary to remove suckers several times.